This is a relatively common build. Followers of Paul Seller's make and post images of "Seller's-inspired," "my-interpretation of," or "Purist" examples of his clock, which originally appeared on YouTube in a free online course he offered. This example of mine is in the "Purist" style. I typically look at pieces online or in a magazine and then draw a picture of what my take on a particular piece would be and come up with some measurements, which get refined a number of times, decide on a wood species, and hit the tools. The problem for me with this kind of adaptive learning is that half of the education, as in the instructional/teacher insights is omitted. I wanted to build my first Seller's clock as Paul did. I wanted to go through the processes he does. More than a clock, I wanted to understand how this master applied his trade, in terms of design, tool choice, order of steps, and methodology. And, I certainly wanted to do that...
This is one of my favorite builds. I made it as a gift for my wife. The clock is almost entirely ahandtool build with some help from a router and scroll saw.
Materials:
- Red oak (top and bottom, sides and rails for the panel frame)
- White oak (top and bottom)
- Maple (faceplate)
- Cherry (bird)
- Clock insert
- Construction Paper
Top & Bottom:
The top and bottom were sized up and prepared. Then I used the router to add a simple edge. I hand-cut four quarter-inch stopped dados, 1/4" deep, using a Japanese saw, a chisel, and my router plane. My only regret is I allowed my mind to wander and I mistakenly cut the dados straight. That is, these should have been made to accept a sliding dovetail. Nonetheless, the final joints proved strong and tight.
The Remainder of the Body:
The clock is difficult to glue up, given it must be done so together, As mentioned, the clock has two stiles that are attached to the top and bottom by four sliding dados. In the front, grooves were cut in to accept the top and bottom faceplate rails, as well as the maple panel. The back of the clock has the rails but not the panel. Therefore, the grooves were not necessary and the dados for the back rail needed to be stopped, or they'd be running down each side having no purpose. In the front there is a bead running top to bottom on the sides, and horizontally on the rails. I made this by inserting a large flathead straight-slot woodscrew in a block of wood--a Paul Sellers trick. I ran the screw head as a cutter and used the block as a guide. The comfort bird decoration was cut 3-D style on the scroll saw.
The Faceplate:
The faceplate was cut to size. I cut the opening for the clock face, as well as the geometric design, with a scroll saw. While I like the visible mechanism of the clock, despite its size it can be, unfortunately, difficult to read. Directly behind the geometric design I taped a small piece of red construction paper, sufficient to cover the holes. This reflects a dull reddish hue is certain light.
Finish:
The pieces were sanded and finished prior to glue-up. Before applying finish, I like to sand to about 220 grit. I mixed premade shellac with alcohol about 40/60, respectively. Then I, typically with a ball made from clean rags, apply about seven coats. My general routine with shellac is to sand lightly with 220 grit after the first coat, and then after every two to three coats with 320 grit. I always sand after the last coat (whatever you decide the last coat is) with 400 grit. Then I often apply a paste wax.
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Final Thoughts:
This was a fun project which included a lot of handtool work and incorporated several power tools. As mentioned, if I were to build another I would use sliding dovetails in the dados for the top and bottom. Hand cutting sliding tenons and dados, dovetail or otherwise, probably seems daunting for some. While they take a bit of work, they are not as difficult as they appear. The other thing I would likely change is the thickness of the sides. This was a scrapwood project and I grabbed what I had, but I think it would've looked a little less clunky had I brought that down to 5/8ths. Doing so would likely cause a corresponding thinning of the top and bottom. Let me know what you think?
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