As a side note, some would argue that we adopt abandoned tools, but not. While we have power of attorney, we bring these corroded elders home, provide needed medical care, and then await the arrival of those who enter our shops and judge us. These venerable carpenters and woodworkers then articulately mansplain our lack of knowledge and prowess in the custodial arts. Who among us has not heard the bone-riving, yet mind-numbing, words, 'that's not how you're supposed to do it"? All I can say to that is judging by the condition of most of these tools, the previous owners didn't know how to do it, either.
As I surveyed this junkyard on a shelf, I found at least one Stanley No. 45 in reasonable condition. They were both marked $25. By reasonable condition I mean parts are present and minimal pitting. They were both heavily covered in rust and grime. I lamented to the clerk that buying such tools was always a risky endeavor and he responded, "Take two." At that point he grabbed one off the shelf and put it in my hands, yelling over his shoulder, "I'll give you both for $25." Feeling like I had just got away cleanly from a bank heist I paid the man and ran to an unmarked car in equally rusty condition.
As said, both were in rough shape. The one given to me more so. One blade between the two and few missing, non-required, parts. The handle, wooden skate, and knob will require repair or replacing. And speaking of that knob... Some rodent appear to have mistaken the rosewood for a walnut. The handle of the second was also cracked, but generally the wood parts were in much better condition.
Both, in fact, cleaned up nicely. I do a pretty basic cleaning, I first soak the parts in a degreaser, then soak in a rust remover, and then scrub with a a wire brush and wash the plane in water, ending with a scrub down of the parts with #0000 steel wool. I then lightly coat all parts with 3-in-1 oil. I lightly sanded the savable wooden parts and coated them in a 50/50 mix of tung oil and gloss polyurethane.
I was not looking for an old combination plane. I am left-handed, which makes them a little awkward to use, and I feel the price of used specialty planes, on sites like eBay, had become both fantastical and unreasonable. I had previously resigned myself to spending the $450 or so for a Veritas left-hander plough. To be fair, the cost in a Stanley is often in blades, and this experience was no different. I wound up obtaining parts for a third Stanley 45 with a mostly complete set of blades for $75. Which blades were missing? The ones that are used the most, silly! So, I wound up having to order a 1/4" blade from Veritas, bringing my total cost to around $145.
I managed to restore two of the Stanley 45's to working order. At present they share blades, but after cleaning them up and doing all that sharpening I realized I have no where to store them. So, I set about building a couple blade boxes. I wanted something that would take up minimal room, or fit inside a larger toolbox, while keeping different types of cutters separate from each other. I settled on single holders for each type, using a piece of poplar. Poplar made sense as it wouldn't dinge as quickly as pine, wouldn't be as heavy as something like red oak, and it's a traditional wood used in the inside of cabinets.
The design is pretty straight-forward. I first ripped cut about a 1' strip across the bottom of a 3/4" piece of 5-1/4" poplar. I then cut dados across the larger board the size of each blade going from 1/8" to 1-1/4", leaving ample space on each end. Next, I glued the 1" piece I had cut off back on where it had been. I used a piece of 1/4" poplar to cover the dado face, covering them except for the top. I then ripped 1" wide pieces of 1/4" poplar to cover the top and the two sides. I chose to miter the top and sides. I then burned No. 45 in the face of the box. Then I laid a cutter on the box starting from the top of the 1" strip and marking about 1/2" down from the top of the cutter. I used this mark to cut the box in half again. I finished it with a wipe-on poly.
It is a little fiddly when putting the cover back on. There is about 1" free space from where the cutters start to where they finish on each end. In those spaces I plan to drill a hole big enough to hold the Stanley 45's short rods, using them, as one would dowels, to keep the top from slipping around.by Stephen J. Koonz
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